How Hill Valley Dairy Is Building Community in Wisconsin

Ron and Josie Henningfield’s artisan line of cheese curds, cheddars, goudas, and natural rind Alpine-style cheeses for Hill Valley Dairy could be described as classic Wisconsin, beginning with what Ron Henningfield calls “fantastic milk.” Henningfield’s third-generation family farm, Romari Farms, in East Troy, dates from 1942 and is just a mile down the road from the creamery and natural microbes from the farm’s terroir populate the cheese from start to finish. But their retail space is anything but traditional.

Ron and Josie’s first retail space and cheese bar, the latter an imaginative social concept in downtown Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, opened in the fall of 2022. The cheese bar nods to the social aspect of a traditional bar within a structure that isn’t solely about drinks, and that doesn’t require an entire evening to enjoy. The space was carefully set up so conversations about cheese—whether during classes, events, or tastings—spark easily. Since opening, this has created a continuum of community that constantly renews itself around Wisconsin cheese. This concept has also supported creative expansion for the cheesemaker, notably in bringing Ron’s long-held dream to age natural rind Alpine-style cheeses to fruition. The Henningfield’s also carry small-batch artisan cheeses from producers like Landmark Creamery, Alpinage, Blakesville Creamery, and Roelli Cheese Haus, who are all part of what Josie calls “the Wisconsin cheese story.”

We spoke with the Henningfields to learn how the idea for a cheese bar took shape, how it works, and the positive outcomes that have followed their opening.

Expanding the Concept of a Cheese Shop

“Our two young kids were raised at farmers markets, napping, and eating dinners in the back of the van, which was a wonderful couple of years. And we love the education side, teaching people about where it all starts,” says Josie Henningfield. However, Ron Henningfield adds, the business had to work for the family; otherwise, they recognized they would eventually burn out.

The Henningfields started talking about a space where they could offer the experiences they’d been bringing to other local venues with more control, more fun, and more uniqueness—where a community could form around cheese. On a walk in Lake Geneva in April of 2021, they spotted a For Rent sign and decided to test the possibility of a small retail shop. When the Henningfields acquired the space right next door shortly thereafter, says Josie, “We started on a completely different path.”

In making choices about that space, it felt important to both that they could engage in conversation with anyone in the space, regardless of where they were seated. As they installed a bar, tables, and chairs, they responded to customers’ questions about what was forthcoming by saying, “We're calling it our cheese bar right now.”

Ron recalls, “People reacted to that—like, ‘Cheese bar. I want to be there.’ The name stuck. It’s a cheese-forward bar where people can gather and have a good experience around cheese.”

Telling the Wisconsin Cheese Story

Josie Henningfield speculates that part of why Wisconsin cheeses are popular and renowned is the way the community of cheese producers “always makes room for more.”

“Watching this manifest has been unlike anything I’ve ever seen in any other industry we were a part of as young adults—because of the camaraderie and support.”

Consumers also thrive in this collegial, mutually supportive atmosphere, says Josie. While visiting, guests spend time at the cheese bar, talking with the cheesemonger, the cheesemaker, and other staff members.

“They grasp the work that goes into the process and appreciate that what they're consuming has really been thought about. When we explain each cheesemakers’ story, how they take care of their animals and craft the cheeses by themselves, they understand smaller cheesemakers care deeply about the quality of ingredients going into their product and are willing to support that,” she explains.

This ultimately continues what Josie calls the “broader Wisconsin cheesemaking story.” The combination of Hill Valley Dairy’s cheeses with those of other producers also, she adds, makes for a beautiful cheese board.

Offering a Tasting Experience

“The price point for cheese can seem high to people who think ‘Oh, but it's just cheese,’” says Josie Henningfield.

As cheese can be a higher end commodity, Josie perceives that people may hesitate to purchase something if they aren’t sure they will like it. The cheese bar offers a structure for people to try a more expensive cheese without worrying they will waste some or not eat it, or not have someone to share it with.

“People are responsive to that. We enjoy hearing that people can indulge their three-year-old’s interest in blue cheese without having blue cheese in the fridge that no one else eats,” says Josie.

Accessible cheese Education for All

The Henningfields notice that for younger children whose palettes are developing, the appreciation of cheese is genuine and far ranging. Their own children, ages 8 and 5, helped them develop a cheese board for the after-school crowd based on cheddar, in an homage to Goldfish crackers. But, says Josie Henningfield, many children instinctively opt for blue cheese, or soft goat or sheep’s milk cheeses. Some gravitate to natural rind cheeses first.

“It’s really fun to watch kids learn about the connection we have with Ron’s family's dairy farm and learn about their food source. Five and six-year-olds get excited to try something made with milk from an animal they’ve never had milk from. Kids are willing to try cheeses that I don't think I tried until I was in my twenties,” says Josie.

Adults also greatly value learning about the sources of cheese and other specialty items in the retail space like chocolate, meat, and bread, explains Josie. And, while the tasting menu may first appear simple, it offers depth and variety, as endless combinations are possible. Repeat customers want friends to try their favorites, and then will try something new to go along with that, creating a new experience.

Building a Sales Channel

Rooting their business at the cheese bar has made it possible for Ron Henningfield to nurture cheeses to fruition that he’s envisioned for a long time, because now there is an immediate outlet for them. The line of natural rind cheeses has grown to feature different flavored rinds, from red wine to shallot and onion to floral to pumpkin spice.

“I’ve had liberty to be creative and let the milk and the cheesemaking and aging processes shine. It’s a style of cheese—aged for a year and a half—that I wanted to make for years. And it was fun to end up with pretty much what I had in mind.”

The Luna is now the dairy’s most awarded cheese; its rind mottles colors of earth and rust, and its body is a rich orange color. The flavors are sweet and salty, with savory and tangy notes. The Alina has a white body, and notes of salt and grass.

In building a line of cheddar cheeses, Ron hoped to evoke the nostalgic and familiar Wisconsin cheddar that is a state mainstay, while also taking it in new directions with flavor integrated into the cheese, like Bacon Cheddar, Black Pepper Cheddar, Tomato Basil, Garlic Dill, and others. Hill Valley Dairy’s spicy cheeses are consumer favorites as well, Josie observes; the wildfire tasting board is an all hot cheese board with Underground Meats Ghost Pepperoni, and the dairy’s Habanero Cheddar, and a Hot Scorpion Pepper Cheddar. Gouda also includes some flavor variations, like Whiskey Gouda.

One goal for both cheeses has been to allow ample time for aging, so flavor can develop and mature; Hill Valley Dairy’s mild, medium, and sharp varieties are all a little bit older than some of the commercial standards.

Connecting Through Craft

Josie’s first career was in dance. Now overseeing design for Hill Valley Dairy, she observes “What I always loved about the arts is a sense of community—dreaming of big projects and involving many people. That's the same here. We enjoy sharing our craft with others and being able to talk about it. We want to involve as many people as we can.”

The bar has provided a new yet familiar way of growing their community and sharing the story of artisan crafted cheese. Cheers to that!