7 Great Connecticut Cheese Shops
Connecticut River, Old Saybrook, Connecticut
One wouldn’t necessarily think of the Nutmeg State when it comes to great cheese, but the quality found in its shops is as impressive as you’ll find anywhere. I’m inclined to believe that a food-conscious and cheese-savvy customer base is a large contributing factor. It speaks volumes that you'll find a Murray's Cheese counter in midtown Manhattan's Grand Central Station, which sees countless thousands of commuters from Connecticut daily. Add to that dedicated and experienced owners and mongers, and you've got a win-win situation for both.
Darien Cheese & Fine Foods
1121 Post Rd, Darien
Ken Skovron of Darien Cheese and Fine Foods
It's hard to imagine anyone more qualified or experienced to run a cheese shop than Ken Skovron. Having worked in nearly every facet of the cheese and specialty foods industry since the age of 15, running Darien Cheese and Fine Foods has been his passion since 1967. His extensive experience is instantly apparent when surveying the products he offers as well as the store's stunning decor and merchandising. While you will find domestically produced cheese, his emphasis is on European imports, as Ken is enamored with “the traditions and history of these cheeses and their connection to the land”. An impressive assortment of Swiss mountain wheels and other aged raw milk European classics line the wooden shelves behind the counter. You'll also find an assortment of soft ripened cheeses, chevres, and semi soft cheeses such as Morbier Lait Cru Perrin, along with a stunning display of olives and charcuterie, all perfectly maintained.
While the focus on cheese is serious, it is served with neither pretension nor condescension, quite the opposite, in fact. On a recent visit, Ken was happy to share his experience during a memorable cheese tasting, the likes of which I have not seen in years, that included some rare finds. It's unusual to see Italian Bitto DOP or even Beaufort d’été, both of which he generously shared along with the best slice of Abbaye de Tamie I've ever come across in the USA. And speaking of the USA, Ken is way ahead of the curve in offering the uber-farmstead cheeses of New Jersey’s Bobolink Dairy and Bakehouse. A charcuterie tasting of bresaola and fennel salami from Salumeria Biellese followed, with Ken sharing his extensive knowledge, passion, and love for cheese and the industry all the while. The shop also has everything else you would need for entertaining, from Eastern European pickles to fine imported olive oils. A must stop if you are in the area, it's even worth a day trip for out-of-state cheese lovers.
The cheese case at Fairfield Cheese Company photo credit Patrick Ambrosio
The sister shops of the Greenwich Cheese Company and Fairfield Cheese Company, located in their respective towns, have been highly praised in the press and are well respected among industry professionals, for good reason. Having visited the Greenwich stores on numerous occasions, I decided to visit their Fairfield location this time. Both stores have a traditional, old-world cheese ambiance and a clean, contemporary look. Co-owners Laura Logos Downey and Chris Palumbo have created a workplace culture that values education and instills the highest degree of professionalism, courtesy, and a love of cheese in each and every one of their staff, most of whom are ACS CCP certified.
The free-standing European curved glass cheese cases that form the focal point of the long service counter are beautifully merchandised with a comprehensive cross-section of interesting imports and domestic classics. Mt. Alice from Von Trapp Farmstead and Juliana from domestic goat cheese pioneer Capriole Farms sit alongside Canadian triple cream Ti-Brun de Liberte from Quebec’s Fromagerie du Presbytère , as well as Dutch Wilde Weide. A farm gouda (‘boorenkaas’) offers a panoply of flavor notes from butterscotch to bourbon, and a very creamy texture. British Farmhouse cheeses are also very well represented, including Pitchfork Cheddar, an absolute gem which you need to try if you haven't already done so; one taste and your concept of Cheddar will forever be changed. Add to that a comprehensive selection of charcuterie items, a daily sandwich special and an extensive selection of pantry items including a most robust selection of tinned seafood, including Danish Limfjord Cockles and Blue Mussels.
Cherry Street Cheese & Provisions
149 Cherry Street , New Canaan
Owner Johanna Bloom and manager Casey Beland of Cherry Street Cheese and Provisions photo credit Patrick Ambrosio
Husband-and-wife owners Johanna and Stephen Bloom are the driving force behind Cherry Street Cheese and Provisions. Together with lead cheesemonger and shop manager Casey Beland, they are bringing outstanding cheeses, charcuterie, sandwiches, and catering to the New Canaan community.
Upon entering to your right, you’ll find a sleek shelving unit that houses a variety of eclectic housewares and stylish serving platters and bowls, lending a touch of art gallery flair. To the left is the expansive glass-lined cheese countertop display featuring a balance of imported and domestic wheels, many of which are sourced from small-scale American farm producers. Johanna shared with me on a previous occasion that she enjoys “bringing in cheeses with an interesting story that we can share with our customers.” A shining example of that would be the new-to-market Brazilian Mandala, an aged raw milk beauty that combines Savoyard cheesemaking techniques with the dairy’s unique cross breeding methods, resulting in a cheese that possesses both classic aged mountain and fruity tropical flavor notes.
Domestic choices include Shakerag Blue from Sequatchie Cove Creamery in Tennessee, and the award-winning Cabot Clothbound Cheddar. In addition to a separate case of cured meats is an entire wall of accoutrements including jams, crackers, and other condiments, as well as imported tinned seafood and bean-to-bar chocolates. There’s also a pretty serious sandwich menu that reaches beyond the offerings of most cheese shops. Joining the list of upscale grilled cheese and cold options is a 20-day dry aged Bacon Fig Cheeseburger with applewood smoked bacon , fig jam, and greens on the life-changing English muffin from local sourdough bakery par excellence Flour Water Salt Bread. Equally outstanding is their 30-day Dry Aged Skirt Steak sandwich with grilled onions and housemade truffle aioli on baguette. A variety of gift baskets items are also available and offer great variety and attractive packaging.
109 Cheese & Wine
109 Danbury Road, Ridgefield
109 Cheese & Wine
The story of Ridgefield's 109 Cheese & Wine begins in 2001 with Cellar XV, a boutique wine shop which was the dream of owner and wine industry professional Monica Brown. Together with her husband, Todd, she opened 109 Cheese in 2007, located across the street. Eventually she closed Cellar XV, folding wine into 109 and eventually opening a second location in nearby historic Kent.
Todd explains, “We look for clean, unprocessed foods from smaller farms and our wines are largely biodynamic or organic. That's the way we eat at home and that’s what we want to bring to our community.” An example is the raw milk farmstead cheeses of Churchtown Dairy in nearby Hudson, New York, whose biodynamic practices and commitment to responsible land stewardship. Ditto for Blue de Combremont, a small production wheel from Switzerland’s Vaud canton which employs traditional production methods and the same high quality milk used in the production of Gruyere AOP. Not surprisingly their charcuterie selections focus those producers that value humane practices and old world production values such as Wild Boar Sopressata from Salumeria Biellese and Prosciutto di Parma Devodier Secretum, aged in underground cellars.
For lunch try their signature Big Ed sandwich, a customer favorite that combines smoked turkey and lettuce topped with house sauce, maple mustard and lettuce on a crusty baguette. Their grilled cheese sandwiches can be customized with add-ons such as cured meats, roasted tomato, or even shallot and thyme roasted mushrooms, all served on toasty sourdough.
In addition to catering platters and gift baskets, the Browns also host a variety of events in both locations. These have included wine and cheese pairings, cooking classes, regionally based wine and food dinners and artist openings. And their Kent shop relocated to a larger cozy and inviting sun drenched space. In addition to hosting events and providing the same level of quality fare as the Ridgefield location, the significantly larger new venue boasts a sit down cafe with plenty of seating and will soon be offering wines by the glass.
Madison Cheese Shop & Cafe
119 Samson Rock Dr, Madison
The cheese menu board at Madison Cheese and Cafe photo credit Fawn Nebinger of Madison Cheese
Heading west along the coast, you’ll find Madison Cheese Shop and Cafe, a local favorite maintained by co-owners Fawn Nebinger, a formally trained artist, and her son Ian Hagerty. Their rotating selection of eighty cheeses are, in Ian’s words, the result of “Our very different palates. We basically buy what we like, and that results in a very well-balanced cheese program.” That includes both the rustic Tomme Corse as well as the creamy and earthy Walden from Sequatchie Cove Creamery in Tennessee. Cured meats include a 30 month Prosciutto di Parma and Rosette de Lyon from Smoking Goose Meatery. Opening in 2008 solely as a cheese shop, they quickly expanded with a cafe with seating, offering an extensive menu of cold sandwiches, grilled cheese, salads, and cheese plates. Ian shares that “We are very proud of the dishes that we turn out of our humble little kitchen. Our customers love our food and are always telling us that our sandwiches are the best around!” Among the twenty plus sandwich options are the Parisian with Berkshire Ham, Comte and butter on ciabatta and the Wowie Zowie; in-house made Roast Beef cloaked in sauteed onions and melted Gruyere on Sourdough, Whole Wheat, Rye or Gluten free bread. Need a last minute platter? Their “A La Carte Plates” are made to order based on your selections with optional add ons. There is both indoor and outdoor seating and diners are encouraged to bring their own wine for on premise dining with no corkage fees.
The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook
33 Main Street, Centerbrook
The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook owner, Deana Simmons photo credit Patrick Ambrosio
The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook has been a destination for cheese and specialty foods for local residents and those from neighboring Connecticut river towns for the past 15 years. Owner Deana Simmons combines her background in sales and marketing along with her passion for all things cheese, offering the finest imported and domestic cheese and charcuterie selections available in her charming shop that oozes an elegant country charm. Having worked at the shop three years prior to acquiring ownership Deena states that “I knew that this is where I was meant to be from the very moment I stepped through the door.”
Customer favorites include their 3 Year Parmigiano Reggiano and Fromager D’Affinois. The local artisan community is well represented here and includes a rotating selection of cheeses from The Mystic Cheese Company, Cato Corner Farm, and Arethusa Farm Dairy, as well as the dry cured salamis of Oui Charcuterie in nearby Woodbridge. Beautiful wooden shelves and baskets are stocked with a seemingly endless selection of pantry goods, including crackers, jams, pastas, sauces, coffee, nuts, chocolates, Tuscan honey, aged Italian balsamico, pickled vegetables, and cheese tools. For ease of entertaining, they offer heat-and-serve appetizers and spreads, along with pre-shredded cheese blends for fondue, and cast-iron fondue serving sets, available for pickup. Additionally, many of their items are available for nationwide shipping.
New Curds on the Block
900 Main Street (Rt. 73) , Oakville
Kate J. Triuli of New Curds On The Block photo credit Patrick Ambrosio
Heading north on the interstate, you'll find the rural town of Oakville, home of New Curds On The Block, housed in the top floor of a massive three-story brick building that appears to be a former warehouse, offices, or a factory from the early 1900s. Owner Kate J. Truini has a Masters in Food Studies from American University in Rome as well as certification from The Institute of Sustainable Nutrition. She has also worked behind the counters of such well-respected shops as the aforementioned Greenwich Fairfield Cheese Company and Saxelby Cheesemongers in New York.
Kate’s mission is clear and intensely focused: a shop with a hyper-local cheese program drawing largely from Connecticut producers and other nearby regional farms, thus highlighting the unique terroir and producers of the Northeast. You’ll find great modern day New England farm tommes and wheels that are approachable enough for everyday eating yet sophisticated enough for an elegant after dinner cheese service. Connecticut favorites include Womanchego and Cachalot; dense and creamy Middlebury Blue from renowned Vermont producer Blue Ledge Farm, and even a local Scamorza from industry veteran Liuzzi Cheese in nearby Hamden. All great products for sure; however the true hidden gems for me were the outstanding cured meats from Hoadley Hills Farm in Kent, a mere 45 minutes northwest of the shop. The shop also carries a variety of accompaniments such as nuts, dried fruits, tinned fish, crackers and jams. Gift baskets feature cheeses and other items from domestic artisan producers such as Castleton Crackers and Nat’s Nuts in the Northeast, and smoked oysters from Taylor Shellfish Farms in Seattle.
The shops, much like the owners and mongers, each have their own distinct personality, look, and viewpoint. They are all shining examples of what is best about independent small businesses, passionate shopkeepers who provide a singular experience, consisting of equal parts great products and personalized service.